Disclaimer:

This system enables you to do many things. This system is not a fool proof system. But with great power, comes greater responsibility. You can easily make mistakes, damage stuff, and hurt yourself. While we have designed this block to be super strong and cheap/easy to repair, you aren't. Be responsible.

You are responsible for thinking ahead of time. We will set out basic guidelines, but you are completely responsible for this unit and its changes, adjustments, and anything that you do with it including but not limited to: transporting, moving, modifying, adding, subtracting, or anything you can possibly do to it the second it leaves the lot. Think things thru thoroughly.

How To:

How to put units together:

There are many different ways they can be placed, and put together. 3 primary ways:

1. Use a coupler to dock them -leaving outside steel intact.

2. Remove common steel and abut the units. See instruction on putting units together.

3. Removing common steel, abut the units, removing a portion of the common wall, installing pillar depending on how many panels are removed.

Recommended changes for stacking:

Additional structural support is needed depending if you have removed or altered any panels. Remove end wall steel from units. Install extra 2x12's crossing from left top to bottom right on one end and top right to bottom left on the other end. Use a crane, a Boomlift, large skid steer, front loader or other heavy machinery to put it in place. A longer, much less safer option is to jack one unit up into the air, slide another below it, and set the top on the one below it. Testing has not been done on 3 high either. Its possible, as additional room was put in the end for additional strength and support, but not recommended at this time.

Managing rain:

Watershed: Managing rain when multiple units are put together.

1. Two units can dock together using a coupler, while keeping their own steel siding. If so, then the water should be able to run without changes. The coupler will shed water around the door.

2. They can also be put together by removing the common external steel. If you are putting two together, try to slope the roofs so rain falls to the exterior. The high point of both units should be in the middle.

3. When water needs to run in one direction over 2 units, there are multiple options, but this is the primary two ways to adjust roof height:

a. change the height of the entire unit by 3.5" universally. This is a far faster and easier way. It will also create a 3.5" difference in height in floors, so plan accordingly.

b. Raise the roof panel. See the how to on raising roof panels

4. Where two units come together and the roof is sloped so that rain would fall into the adjust end.

How to get to code in my area:

Since this is a platform, many times UDC codes do not apply. For example, UDC code typically does not apply to anything on wheels. If these blocks are used in such a way to need to meet local code, there is a variety of ways to make it compliant. Almost all parts of this system are changeable. A contractor can make the adjustments or do it yourself.

Option 1: Contractor. Contact your local contractor. Blue prints and specifications are are available.

Option 2: DYI. Find out your local codes, see what changes are necessary, and complete them. We will be expanding our "how to" area with additional details.

How to raise roof:

Raising roof panel to add insulation, space, manage water, or adjust roof pitch. The height and pitch of the roof can be adjusted. To adjust the entire roof height, remove the steel roof, remove the appropriate screws holding the 8'x8' panel to the frame. Add a 2x4 (3.5 inches)on its side on to all of the appropriate framing and support. Add 3.5 inches for every unit away the slope needs to be raised. The ratio is 3.5" roof pitch, for every one building block in diameter. So, if you want 3 roof pitches in sucession, the highest unit getings 2-2x4s added, the middle unit will get 1 2x4 added, and the lowest does not need any added.

Use a desired method such as bracing, screwing, and more to attach the 2x4s in place. Add more for desired height. See also changing roof pitch or direction.

How to change the height of the block:

Changing the height of the block: DISCONNECT THE DESIRED BLOCKS. Verify that the block can be moved without damage. Recheck that it can be moved without damaging anything. Again, for the third time, make sure the roof and wall steel isn't going to colide, make sure any attaching screws are undone, and make sure any utilities are decoupled/removed/or have enough room to move.

- 1. If the block is on wheels, roll the unit forward or backwards, add the desired material that has a proper slope to allow the tire to transverse up the slope, under the path of all tires. When the block is rolled back into position, the unit should be raised to the desired height. Note: Depending on your setup, the roof steel may need to be partially removed, or propped up to not damage the steel.

2. Each unit can be jacked up, or raised on either end. Add appropriate spacers (usually 3.5 inches) under the appropriate places, making sure to add appropriate spacers to ALL contact and support areas. Each configuration will require support differently. For example, if your unit has a carriage, support under the carriage. If it does not, make sure to support the appropriate floor joist positions.

How to add insulation:

Insulation can be added on all sides in multiple ways. These are just a few:

Floor: Option 1: Up to ~ 5.5 inches(r27) of Styrofoam insulation can be added under the bottom plywood with in the space created by the 2x12 structure. Its suggested to use pink Styrofoam, and if possible, multiple off centered layers. It seals the best, and adds another vapor barrier, easy to install and remove, but is expensive. By using sheets, access to the rest can be maintained.

Option 2: 2x4's can be added, then another set of plywood installed, and cellulose insulation added. These options are the same if you have a carriage installed. The 6x6 carriage can be the frame work. This frame work and insulation impacts access to the floor.

Option 3: As well, if someone desired, they could added high density foam to the top of the existing floor, then another set of plywood for weight redistribution. This method significantly impacts functionality.

Walls: Its recommended to use only independent foam sheets when adding R-value to the walls.

Option 1: The external steel can be removed and insulation added in the crevasses. If foam is used, creates ~1.5 inches(r7). Additional foam sheets can be added but will require longer screws and corner gable adjusted to maximum allowance. Calculate before implementing.

Option 2. The internal plywood can be removed and additional layers can be installed. It may require trimming two pieces of plywood to allow the additional material. Its recommended to cut the already trimmed pieces. Keep in mind it will reduce the over all internal space.

Roof:

Option 1: Remove roof steel, add pink foam to the channels created between the 2x4s. Seal between with foam sealing tape. This will be ~1.5 inches (R-7).

Option 2: Additional foam sheets can be added but will require longer screws and corner gable adjusted to maximum allowance

Option 3: Add an additional ring of 2x4s, 2x6s, or 2x8s to raise the roof panels. See raising the roof panels sections on how. The additional space will have the corresponding R value of cellulose.

"Running gear" 101:

A running gear is a platform, designed originally for farm use. Its a simple yet strong steel structure with 4 wheels that supports the weight of the load. Some have braking systems, the one's used for display do not have brakes. We use basic 6 ton(12,000lbs rating) running gear from EZ trail. They are not typically designed for continuous road usage. Some that are designed for over the road, can be used but not currently offered. A carriage add on is required to install a block on to the running gear.

- Can I pull them on the road with a running gear? In Wisconsin, yes. Its considered a slow moving vehicle according to state law. Top speed of 35 mph. Attach a slow moving sign and/or lights. Different states will have different laws.

Follow all instructions and requirements according to state law. Wisconsin state laws:

https://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/statutes/statutes/348/ii/05/3r

- Can I pull more than one when using running gear? Yes depending on your truck and tongue length. State code: 348.07 Length of vehicles: No person, without a permit therefor, may operate on a highway any single vehicle with an overall length in excess of 45 feet or any combination of 2 vehicles with an overall length in excess of 70 feet, except as otherwise provided in subs.

Disclaimer and pointers: For those not familiar with running gear, they have no brakes. They pull, and push differently than typical trailers. As well, with such a long wheel base, the steering isn't sharp. Long turns are required, be VERY careful not to turn sharper than the steering can handle. Take bumps, pot hole and the like, slowly as running gear have no shocks. The wheels are very durable but can only absorb so much of the shock. All the bounce is transferred into the carriage.

How to install electric to allow blocks to be reconfigured(expand more later):

1. install quick connects for each unit, so each unit can be "unplugged" from the main box.

2. Install extra electric cord, accommodating the amount of desired distance plus some extra. Put the excess in a desired location, usually behind wall steel.

Ideal Scenarios:

Ideal Scenario(a few of many):

1. Unit(s) with a carriage and running gear, put on a concrete pad(my personal ideal).

Why: on a running gear, it can be moved to new location. It can also be re-arranged by hand. Yes, a unit can be moved by hand if its on a running gear as long the wheels has a flat surface to move on.

Pro's: Minimal local code requirements, movable, extra storage under structure, not considered a permanent structure. Easiest and quickest option for reconfiguration on the fly.

Con's: Sewer will generally have to come up thru the concrete, making moving them to a new position difficult. Work around one: put the utilities (shower, sink, bathroom etc) block over the sewer and other utilities. Leave it there, only moving the additional blocks around that central location. Work around two: since the unit is elevated from the carriage and running gear, the pipes can run at the appropriate angle(usually 1/8-1/16 of an inch per foot in Wisconsin) to where ever the pipes come thru the pad. With the floor being 35+ inches off the ground, gives room for the bathroom and other lines to run downhill.

2. Unit(s) put on on concrete blocks with concrete pad/footings. If its not on a properly supported trailer or running gear, its recommend to put footings so that settling does not occur. Putting it on blocks that are located on dirt or other surfaces is possible but not recommended. The blocks will settle unevenly, tilting the unit over time. If units aren't put together, it can be corrected as needed. Most states require anything being on a "permanent foundation" to have footings that support the structure. Please check your local code.

Pros: Considered permeant and should qualify for mortgage financing.

Cons: It significantly reduces changing over all external floor plan quickly. However, because of the design, the interior walls can be relocated quickly, just not the over all shape of the house. Though its more work, the blocks can still be re-assembled and moved. Verify changes that need to be done so that the untreated lumber can be sealed for "in contact" scenarios.

3. Unit(s) put directly on basement. Yes, these units can be installed on a basement like any other manufactured home. Use a crane, boom lift, large skid steer, or setup blocks to wheel the unit into position, lift it off the trailer, set it into position. See above pro's and con's.

Disclaimer:

How To:

Ideal Scenarios:

Ideal Scenario(a few of many):

This website uses cookies.